It's a Tai Chi Morning

July 21, 2013

Each day on our itinerary held its highlights, and this last day in Chongqing was not about to be outdone.  Dressed in our workout duds, we Fulbrighters headed to the section of town where there was a basketball gym, a track, and an all-around play area for non-athletes.  We were to meet up with Mr. Hu's Tai Chi master for a lesson.  

A captivating demonstration

Tai Chi master demonstrating what it SHOULD look like

This is so much harder than it looks.  My sparring partner was really strong and was not going easy on the rookie American.  Check out the look of concentration on my face.

Dazu Rock Carvings

July 20, 2013

In Dazu County, in the municipality of Chongqing, a historic wonder hides in the mountains.  The Dazu Rock Carvings are on UNESCOs World Heritage List.  They are a series of grand carvings of Buddhist, Tao, and Confucian themes.  One section's story feels peaceful and serene, such as the carvings showing people's dedication to their elder family members.  Another section is disturbing.  I almost want to look away but can't.  This section depicts images of what hell is like.  Figures are being tortured in a variety of imaginative ways.

The first carvings were done in Early Tang Dynasty in the 650s, but the main body of work commenced in the 9th century.  Wei Junjing began the carvings in 892.  Others followed his example to continue the great work.  From early Tang through the Ming and Qing dynasties, the site endured and was not destroyed by natural or man-made disasters (a fire destroyed a section, but that was repaired during the Ming and Qing period).  That is probably the last time there was any significant work done on the carvings.

There were sections with vibrant and beautiful blues that look as if they were painted within  this last decade.  Master craftsmen worked to create this wonder until the end of the 13th century when war caused the work to stop for good.

Chongqing Cliff Notes - Part 3 - The Cruise

July 18, 2013

The day began with a drive into the mountain country surrounding the metropolitan center.  That gave us a bird's eye view of the beautiful Chongqing South Mountain scenery.  Real people; rural people, who didn't have time to put out the "good chopsticks" for the American teachers were about their business in the small mountain town we stopped at.  We split up and wandered around.  There were some small brick and mortar shops and more than a few outdoor stalls set up.  We had some time to kill before our afternoon lectures.  My mission during this stop led to one of my favorite memories.

While back in Beijing, two cities earlier in my itinerary, we visited a hot pot restaurant.  Recall my post called, "The Noodle Dancer."  During that interactive dinner, I got my nails done.  I know this is going to seem silly and trivial, but sometimes little things lead to bigger events.  Well, that nail polish was, by this time, pealing like old paint, and it was driving me crazy!  I needed it off and didn't have any nail polish remover.  In this south mountain town, I spied a drugstore.  The perfect place to pick some up.  Scanning the aisles carefully, I couldn't figure out if they had any or not.  While I had a rough idea what it might look like, I couldn't read any of the labels.  When I finally gave up finding it myself, I enlisted the help of the sales clerk.  Through gestures and acting, she figured out what I wanted, I think.  She didn't have any.  

In the meantime, two girls who looked to be about 12 years old were curious about me and began creeping in a little closer.  After exchanging friendly smiles, I posed my question to them.  "Is there any nail polish remover here?"  I gestured wiping the chipping, purple stuff off of my nails.  They seemed to understand what I wanted, and we went from one shop to the next together.  No luck.  We said good-bye.  I thanked them and caught up with some of the others who were shopping/wandering around the outdoor merchants' stalls.

Kitchen utensils, fans (both electric and hand-powered palm leaf styles), fruit, hardware, and a variety of other odds and ends took my attention for some time. Presently, I felt a tap on the shoulder and turned to find the two girls behind me.  They had Cheshire Cat smiles on their faces and proudly produced a bottle of nail polish remover.  Tah dah!  I gushed thankfulness and gratitude and tried to pay them, but they refused to take any money and ran off.  I really did try to pay them.  In fact, I started after them to try to give them some yuan, but gave it up when another man started yelling at me.  To this day I don't know whether that man thought I was trying to hurt the girls, or whether he was just a yeller.  I tend to think he was a yeller because he followed me and my group around until we boarded the bus again, all the while talking/yelling.  Thing is, even my tour director, who speaks fluent Mandarin, couldn't understand what the man was trying to say.  But I digress.  The kindness of those girls will not soon be forgotten.  In a world where I'm seen as a rich American by many, and someone from whom a few yuan might be made, it was a refreshing reminder that some people just want to make a friendly connection.  :)

The evening finally arrived.  An itinerary highlight was this cruise along the Yantze and Jieling Rivers. They join here and then the Yangtze continues to flow south toward the Three Gorges Dam.  We didn't see the dam on this trip.  After running back and forth to find and board our boat, we all finally made it and scoped out a good place at the rail to enjoy the cruise... which started an hour later.  

Yep.  Posed.

What better way to while away the hour before
launch than to blow bubbles!

Our boat was for pleasure; this one is working into the evening.  

Another tour boat on the Yangtze.

The view is totally worth it.

On board

Chongqing from the river

Chongqing Cliff Notes - Part 2

July 16, 2014

A drive into the outskirts of Chongqing with the purpose
of visiting and conversing with educators at a university
of teacher preparation turned out to be a big deal.

Each of our group was presented with a scroll with specially
selected writings from Confucius (I still have to get this
translated.).

Hanging with Confucius again.

The university hosted a 28-plate dinner in our honor. I was
using my best etiquette and felt a bit overwhelmed, but
honored all the same.

A view of Chongqing as we returned to the city.

While back in Beijing, two cities earlier in my itinerary, we visited a hot pot restaurant.  Recall my post called, "The Noodle Dancer."  During that interactive dinner, I got my nails done.  I know this is going to seem silly and trivial, but sometimes little things lead to bigger events.  Well, that nail polish was, by this time, pealing like old paint, and it was driving me crazy!  I needed it off and didn't have any nail polish remover.  In this south mountain town, I spied a drugstore.  The perfect place to pick some up.  Scanning the aisles carefully, I couldn't figure out if they had any or not.  While I had a rough idea what it might look like, I couldn't read any of the labels.  When I finally gave up finding it myself, I enlisted the help of the sales clerk.  Through gestures and acting, she figured out what I wanted, I think.  She didn't have any.  

In the meantime, two girls who looked to be about 12 years old were curious about me and began creeping in a little closer.  After exchanging friendly smiles, I posed my question to them.  "Is there any nail polish remover here?"  I gestured wiping the chipping, purple stuff off of my nails.  They seemed to understand what I wanted, and we went from one shop to the next together.  No luck.  We said good-bye.  I thanked them and caught up with some of the others who were shopping/wandering around the outdoor merchants' stalls.

Kitchen utensils, fans (both electric and hand-powered palm leaf styles), fruit, hardware, and a variety of other odds and ends took my attention for some time. Presently, I felt a tap on the shoulder and turned to find the two girls behind me.  They had Cheshire Cat smiles on their faces and proudly produced a bottle of nail polish remover.  Tah dah!  I gushed thankfulness and gratitude and tried to pay them, but they refused to take any money and ran off.  I really did try to pay them.  In fact, I started after them to try to give them some yuan, but gave it up when another man started yelling at me.  To this day I don't know whether that man thought I was trying to hurt the girls, or whether he was just a yeller.  I tend to think he was a yeller because he followed me and my group around until we boarded the bus again, all the while talking/yelling.  Thing is, even my tour director, who speaks fluent Mandarin, couldn't understand what the man was trying to say.  But I digress.  The kindness of those girls will not soon be forgotten.  In a world where I'm seen as a rich American by many, and someone from whom a few yuan might be made, it was a refreshing reminder that some people just want to make a friendly connection.  :)

The temple in the city.  A juxtaposition of tradition and progress

Entering the temple in Chongqing.  We
are here for lectures on Buddhists poetry

The temple in Chongqing

There are always items available for purchase at temples.
Incense, talismans, statues, jewelry... you name it.

Places for worshippers

Incense for sale

This looks like it leads to a quiet and peaceful
place.  At this point, though, I learned that I
was supposed to be in the conference room
with my group for our first lecture at this venue.
No more photos for now. 

Chongqing Cliff Notes - Part 1

The city view tour begins our visit to Chongqing.  We are blown away by the size of the city.  The buildings touch the sky.  The roads and rivers are the backbone here.  Where the Yangtzi and the Jialing Rivers meet, they continue flowing south as only the Yangtzi. Barges carrying coal, sand, and crates move up and down the river all day long.

A first view of the city of Chongqing, China

On the street near our hotel.  Tempting, but after
our head-cracking experience at the Xi'an hospital,
no Fulbright members opted to get a treatment here. 

The infamous durian fruit.  It's been described as smelling
like feet, dead and rotting things, and just plain awful.  I
met anyone who loves and eats this fruit.

Visits to the grocery store are interesting.  I don't know
what this fruit is called, but it sure is beautiful.

Bulk noodles

The fish department at the grocery strode

The poultry and rabbit department at the
grocery store.

More Chongqing city views

Chongqing City View

A visit to Jielong Middle School included dance,
tai chi, and musical performances.  We feel like such
celebrities when we arrive at our school sites.  

These girls did their best to teach us how to do their ribbon
dance.

Music class ended up being a time to play around with the
camera.

In the photo above, you can see part of the Jielong, a wind instrument.  This school prides itself in keeping this and other performance arts alive.  Jielong Chuida means wind and percussion instrument playing.  It is listed as one of China's non-material cultural heritages in 2006.  Jielong Chuida bands often perform at weddings, funerals, sports events, and business conferences.  The students offered us an opportunity to try to play music and dance.  They were very kind, but we knew they were amused. 

It feels right.  Why were they giggling?

The school highlights this tree, which is
growing on the foundation of a rock.  They
say that it is a metaphor for giving children a
firm foundation.

The tree shown above is one of two planted in 1995.  The trees were the same size when they were planted, but now, in 2013, the difference is great (The very small one is to the left of this one.  It is not pictured.).  The school staff guides students to draw a conclusion about this mystery.  They tell us that the bigger, stronger one has roots that have gone much deeper into the earth.   It absorbs more nutrients. Additionally, this larger tree has set its roots between the stones, overcoming harsh conditions.  This is a metaphor for students and their growth potential.  Only by standing on solid ground and meeting challenges can children grow into such a towering tree.  

The Stilwell Museum was an interesting look
at U.S. China alliances during WWII.

A poignant photo in the Stilwell Museum.

Learning about the Fighting Tigers, General Stilwell, and
U.S. - China alliances during WWII.

A wine shop on the street in Chongqing

A common activity for men.  They play cards (and gamble)
on the streets.

At several of the schools and universities that
we have visited, there are sculptures, or paintings,
or writings of Confucius.  He is back in the good
graces of the Chinese government after being
expelled for awhile.

A scene in the courtyard of the Great Hall of the People.

The Great Hall of the People in Chongqing, China

Great and small groups of people flock to the square

in the shadow of the Great Hall of the People

 to dance the evening away.

Another look at Chongqing proper.

Chongqing has between four and six thousand bridges, depending on who's telling the story.  The city is built on solid rock, like Manhattan, so does not have a great earthquake danger.  Flying from Xi'an to Chongqing was a great opportunity to see the terrain.  Looking out the window, I could see mountains, green valleys, and terrace-farming most of the way.  Abruptly, however, the farmland makes way for a multitude of high rise buildings.  The city appears so suddenly that it feels like a scene change in a movie.  It was 102 degrees fahrenheit that first day in Chongqing, and it hit like the blast from a furnace as we deplaned.